Frequently Asked Questions
How do I find out if the fence is mine or my neighbour's?
This will be written in the deeds of the house purchase. You should have a copy of this. If not, try the solicitor who acted for you on the purchase of the house. If you have no joy there, then try the Land Registry, Tel: 0870 0100299.
Alternatively, it is worth putting the question to your neighbour: good neighbourly diplomacy can work wonders. If you are willing to pay for some or all of a neighbour's fence, you may have a say in the design of it.
A rule of thumb is if the framework is on your side then in most cases the fence belongs to you!
How high can I build my fence?
Front of houses have permission from the council for up to 1.0 metre in height, sides and back of houses of up to 2.0 metres in height.
These are the average boundary regulations found at your local council offices. You should always check your local council regulations as they vary from borough to borough.
Do I have to set the fence posts in concrete, or are there alternatives?
You can use a post support system. Better to dig a small hole (min. 2ft deep) and set the posts in concrete. While the fence is setting, you can adjust the fence to ensure it is level. We suggest using spirit levels and a string line along the top of the fence for best results. Remember, the eye usually looks at the top of the fence. It is best to get this right first time. Otherwise you will be looking at an uneven fence horizon for the next decade.
Do I have to treat the fence (paint or preservative), and if so, how often?
Most of our timber products are pressure treated against rot and decay.
It is recommeded, however, that you apply an appropriate treatment or preservative at regular intervals to maintain the condition of your product.
We do have a range of suitable treatments in the branches. Search under Woodcare.
Does the life-span of the various types of fencing differ greatly?
Oak and chestnut products have a durable rating: i.e. last 20+ years with ground contact. Most fencing is softwood: this has a perishable rating, i.e. 2-5 years' life. All good fencing companies should pressure-treat their timber, thereby extending the life to 10 - 15 years.
Challenge Fencing prefers quality and purchases redwoods, which cost a little more but accepts the treatment better. That is why we can give it a 10 year guarantee.
How do I calculate how many panels and posts I would need?
The UK is shifting to the pre-made fencing panel. Usually this is 6ft (72"), or more accurately 1.83metres (1830mm). Posts are 75mm or 100mm thick, so each unit with post is 1930mm. So if your fence was 100 metres long, you would need 52 panels.
What other materials will I need?
- Have you thought of ballast and cement or postmix to set your posts in the ground?
- What about nails, screws or other relevant fixings?
- You can have posts specially shaped.
- Have you thought of putting trellis on top?
What tools are needed to erect the fence myself?
A fencers graft: that is a long-handled, thin-headed spade for digging deep 2ft 6" x 6" holes. A saw, hammer and a wheelbarrow mostly for mixing the cement and ballast.
How would I attach the first panel to the house?
Avoid using a post. Try using a wallplate 4"x2" or 3"x2", or something that is 1.5" thick. The best and quickest method of fitting is a masonry nail or an appropriate wall fixing available from our branches.
Do I need planning permission to erect a shed?
No. As long as it is under 30 square metres and does not have a shower (a large and unknown gap in the UK property market).
Visit www.titangardenbuildings.com for some good examples.
Is a concrete base necessary as a foundation for a shed?
It is recommended, preferably the same size as the shed. Otherwise paving slabs, or wooden bearers or timber that is treated could be used.
A shed usually rots at ground level first, so it is there that you need to look after it first. A concrete base will therefore help preserve your shed.
Question Not Answered?
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